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A Guide to Chocolate, Brown and Champagne Diamonds
You might be surprised to learn that diamonds come in a rich spectrum of colours beyond classic white. Coloured diamonds are known as "fancy diamonds," and among the most coveted are the warm, earthy tones of chocolate, brown and champagne varieties. Here's everything you need to know.
What are chocolate, brown and champagne diamonds?
All three are naturally occurring fancy coloured diamonds, distinguished by their depth of tone:
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Chocolate diamonds share the same warm brown colour as other brown diamonds but were first marketed under the "Chocolate Diamond" name by Le Vian jewellers in the 1980s.
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Brown diamonds range from light caramel through to deep coffee tones.
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Champagne diamonds are the palest of the three, with a golden or peachy undertone reminiscent of the drink they're named after.
How are chocolate, brown and champagne diamonds graded?
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grades coloured diamonds on a scale measuring the depth and quality of colour:
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D-Z - Range of colour acceptable for white or near colourless stones.
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Fancy light - A light shade of colour that’s present throughout the stone.
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Fancy - Rich and luminous colour. Most Champagne diamonds fall into this range.
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Fancy Intense - Warm and deep colours. Most caramel shades fall into this range.
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Fancy Deep - The colour of these diamonds are rich and highly saturated, veering towards the darker end of the chocolate scale. The deep colour impacts the opacity giving the stone a velvety quality.
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Fancy Dark - Very deeply saturated colour. These stones absorb a lot of light which makes them less brilliant, but they have a deep depth of colour, like a dark espresso.
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Fancy Vivid - A combination of intense colour combined with exceptional brightness. The rarest and most sought after.
History of Brown Diamonds
Brown diamonds were first used in jewellery nearly 2,000 years ago in ancient Rome, before falling out of favour around the 2nd century AD and being repurposed largely for industrial use. A notable exception was the Brazilian "Star of the South," discovered in 1853, a 128.48ct stone graded Fancy Light pinkish-brown, last sold to Cartier in 2002 and considered priceless.
The modern story of brown diamonds began in the 1980s, when the Argyle mine in Australia brought coloured diamonds back into the jewellery world, with Rio Tinto leading the way and De Beers following suit. When the Argyle mine closed in 2020, the already-scarce supply of these warm-toned diamonds became even more limited, increasing their value considerably.
How are brown diamonds formed?
Unlike some fancy diamonds, which owe their colour to chemical impurities such as nitrogen, brown diamonds get their warm hue from the diamond's internal structure. The extreme pressure during formation causes microscopic deformations that absorb certain wavelengths of light and reflect back that characteristic warm glow.
Natural Vs Treated brown diamonds
Some brown diamonds on the market have had their colour artificially enhanced through high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) treatment. Treated stones are less valuable than their naturally occurring counterparts, so always ask your jeweller about the origin and treatment history of any stone you're considering.
Why brown diamonds are making a comeback
Brown diamonds are increasingly popular as engagement ring stones, particularly for those who want something distinctive. At a time when colourless diamonds are widely available, the individuality of a brown diamond is a genuine draw.
They also pair beautifully with warmer metal settings such as yellow and rose gold, and suit vintage and antique-inspired ring designs particularly well, where their warmth complements intricate metalwork. They're equally at home in nature-inspired settings, lending an earthy, organic feel.
High-profile fans include Jennifer Lopez and Halle Berry, both of whom have worn champagne diamond engagement rings. More recently, Doja Cat was spotted wearing a bespoke brown diamond toi et moi ring, describing it as wearing the "Fenty Beauty palette of diamonds."
Brown Diamonds from Diamond Heaven
Looking for a fancy diamond for your proposal? Our experts will be happy to advise the best colours and cuts and styles for your dream proposal. Contact us for specialist guidance, visit us in store, or book an appointment.
